THE ICEMAN CONETH

cone of silence

A new Ice Age is dawning in Australia: Kevin Clark, who works in Melbourne’s Tiki Lounge and Bar, has resurrected the lost art of ice garnish with a drink he calls the Cone Of Silence. It’s served with an ice cone molded around the straw, an old Tiki bar mixologist’s trick that hasn’t been done for paying customers in over three decades (outside of the Mai-Kai in Fort Lauderdale, which is still serving its Yeoman’s Grog that way after 52 years).

The method was taught to us by Tony Ramos, who tended bar at three Don The Beachcomber’s restaurants — Hollywood, Palm Springs, and Marina Del Rey — in the 1960s and ’70s. We revealed it in the Grog Log, which is where Kevin tumbled to it. Here’s how: pack a footed pilsner glass with finely shaved ice, run a chopstick through the middle to make a hole for the straw, and then gently remove the cone from the glass. Freeze the cone for at least four hours (but preferably overnight). When ready to serve, run a straw through the cone and place it in a double old-fashioned glass. Strain your drink into the glass.

If you don’t live within hitching distance of Australia but would like to try a Cone Of Silence, Kevin has graciously agreed to share his recipe: Cut half a lime into chunks and muddle with 1 teaspoon of brown or raw sugar. (Optional — add the pulp of one feijoa fruit if in season.) Pour in 1 1/2 ounces 42 Below Feijoa vodka and 1/2 ounce green Chartreuse. Fill glass with crushed ice and stir. (If you like a sweeter drink, add sugar syrup to taste.) Garnish with ice cone-enclosed straw.

TIKI LOUNGE AND BAR, MELBOURNE

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